Pro Talk: Celebrity Hairstylist Mika Fowler
“I like to create something – and I like girls. I mean, not sexually, but I like to make girls pretty so hair styling was a natural profession for me. I started over 20 years ago in Japan and my boss is like Vidal Sassoon there and he taught me haircutting and American culture. I worked in Japan for ten years and then I moved to LA fifteen years ago.
When I was young, I was very picky and I didn’t like anyone to cut my hair more than what I asked for. I once had a very bad experience and had to leave the chair in the middle of the haircut. I was about 17 years old and I asked for half an inch to be cut but they cut close to two inches. It was really shocking! But hasn’t this happened to all girls? When you cut on dry hair, like me, my clients have the power to control the process. We can create together.
I call the type of cuts I do “freestyle dry haircutting.” Dry haircutting is already very popular in Japan, but I didn’t really start doing this technique until I moved to LA. This country has so many different types of women with different types of hair textures, so dry haircutting is easier to fit with a person’s personality, lifestyle and hair quality. Cutting on dry hair is very precise. I don’t cut a lot from the base. I cut the base but then I go back on very straight hair and I look for the unbalance, what doesn’t appeal to your bone structure. I then adjust it to your bones. I blow dry and straighten with a flat iron before cutting to see how each person’s hair moves and to see the quality of their ends. Sometimes, it is more obvious to see damaged ends this way. I usually see how the hair falls naturally. The key to this haircut is how your hair falls, how your hair moves, and your bone structure. If you ignore the bone structure, the haircut won’t last very long.
Anyone with thin hair should not be so adventurous. You should understand your hair and keep it clean and basic. You don’t want to give it too much texture. For summer, it’s popular to have face line fringe, especially this year. Everyone is going shorter, a shorter version of their current length.
With curly hair, you want to see how the hair is going to “shrink” [editor’s note: shrink refers to the way the curls dry up]. Face line fringe is good for this type of hair, but it should start from lower cheekbones or at the lip. This way, you can enjoy your hair curly or blown out straight.
People with thick hair have more potential, as long as your hair isn’t kinky curly. If you cut too short or too layered, your hair will frizz and end up looking like you have a bowl on your head. As long as you have a good balance though, you can enjoy many possibilities.
I usually convince people with very curly hair to wear their hair natural. I do less layers but extra texture by cutting into the hair, vertically. I don’t cut curly hair in a blunt way, I use the scissors like a laser, cutting up and down, and then blend it together.”
— Celebrity Hairstylist Mika Fowler, who has worked with Olivia Munn, Nina Dobrev, Emma Roberts, Rosario Dawson, and AnaLynne McCord.