How To: The No-Makeup-Makeup Look
Francois Nars created an internet frenzy when he glammed up the Marc Jacobs models with nothing more than moisturizer for the Spring 2015 runway show last week. No makeup? Bare skin? Blemishes? OH MY! Okay, let’s get a few things straight. Models are extraordinary creatures. Their chiseled cheek bones, thick, groomed, gorgeous brows, wide-set eyes, full, voluptuous lips, and glowing complexion that looks like they just slept 10 hours and got an oxygen facial, simultaneously, are not the norm. That’s why they’re models. And they’re the exception, not the rule. We mortals can fake most of the aesthetics (save for height and weight) – such as those angular cheekbones, thick brows, and model-worthy glow – with the help of a few trusted products. And then we, too, can brag about our superhuman perfection.
Prep: When it comes to no-makeup-makeup, prepping your skin is key. You want to create that coveted dewiness… and a moisturizer that contains hyaluronic acid, a natural plumping agent that rehydrates all skin types. It holds its weight in water by something like 100 times. Dewy skin starts with a thoroughly hydrated base so make sure to layer your serums and moisturizers. Try Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hyaluronic Moisture Cushion (I’m a huge fan of the entire Dr. Gross range). At an affordable $58, this oil-free face cream will inject moisture without a greasy residue for a healthy, dewy complexion.
Adding a drop of face oil to your moisturizer will do wonders for your glowing-from-within complexion. I’m a fan of Sunday Riley’s Artemis Hydroactive Face Oil ($125), formulated specifically for oily skin so it won’t make you break out. For drier skin types, try Sunday Riley’s Juno Face Oil. Literally, all you need is one drop. The Sunday Riley team actually used this moisturizer / face oil combination backstage at a slew of fashion shows this season so, basically, it’s model approved.
Complexion: We’re striving for a no-makeup look so foundation is out of the question. If you’re really self-conscious about your uneven complexion, use a very sheer tinted moisturizer like Amore Pacific Moisture Bound Tinted Treatment Moisturizer ($70). This one is great because it covers imperfections without looking cakey. In fact, it leaves a dewy glow on the skin, similar to that of a supped-up hyaluronic acid moisturizer. If you have a tinted moisturizer that you adore, thin it out by adding more of your actual moisturizer to the tinted one, then apply.
If you can live without the tinted moisturizer, try spot treating blemishes and imperfections with a blend able concealer – the same color as your skin tone (This is how Nars treated the Marc Jacobs models because, yes, even models get the occasional breakout). Two exceptional products that work well as spot treatments/ faux foundations are RMS Un Cover-Up ($36) and the celebrity favorite, Clea de Peau Concealer ($70) (I often use both at once!).
Cheekbones: To add a little chisel to your cheekbones without it looking like you’re trying too hard, apply a contouring powder very lightly into the hollow of your cheekbone and blend out toward your hairline. Try Kevyn Aucoin’s Sculpting Powder ($44). If you apply correctly, the makeup won’t be noticeable but the newly improved model-like cheekbone will!
Eyebrows: A full brow can literally change your entire face. You don’t need eye makeup if you have a thick, full brow. So, do what the experts do, and color in the lines! My absolute favorite brow powder is from Anastasia. The Brow Powder Duo ($23) lets you mix and match two shades to create your brow hue (I suggest going slightly darker to make eyebrows look larger and more full). But here’s the real trick. If your brows are thin or sparse, after filling them in with powder, go over them with Anastasia’s Tinted Brow Gel ($22) – extra dark, extra thick, and everything will stay in place.
Extras: The no-makeup look basically implies that you’re not using any makeup (although we know that this isn’t entirely fact… shhhh). And mascara is a dead giveaway. But you can fake longer lashes by adding some gloss to the lashes — seriously, it works! Try a multipurpose cream like Aquaphor ($5) or Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream ($21) or Rosebud Salve ($6) (this was the product used at the Marc Jacobs show on the models’ lips). Add a dab onto cheekbones – and even brow bones – to accentuate your natural dew.