How To Part Your Hair For Your Face Shape (And Then Some)
I’m oddly fascinated by hair parts. Growing up, I opted for a side part because, well, that’s what everyone was doing. I’m not sure if I ever really thought that it looked good on me, but it was the trend and I’m not ashamed to admit that I was riding that trend train. I grew up in the age of the supermodel when Cindy Crawford reigned supreme and, well, she had a side part (more of a bang flip to the side but that’s an entirely different post). And a mole, which I tried to emulate as well.
During my pre-teen years, I also blew out my hair on a daily basis (I was going for the Crawford body). Then one holiday, I was vacationing in a beachy, humid climate and I didn’t have the proper adapter for my blowdryer. Hence, I had to air dry my hair (which I hadn’t done since before puberty) and, to my bewilderment, my hair was actually kinda curly. Beachy waves, to be more precise. Without the blowdryer to straighten my strands, I also noticed that my hair naturally parted in the center. And this center part combined with tousled tresses lent itself rather nicely to what would become my new, low-maintence hair look – hippy meets surfer girl. Luckily, the undone, bed head / center part look was getting a ton of air time so I was right on trend.
Nowadays, celebrities seem to switch up their hair parts from day to night. Take Sienna Miller (who is highlighted in the slideshow above). She’ll wear a dead center part one day, an off center part the next, and an exaggerated side part for a throwback to Hollywood glam. And she looks great with every part!
Which brings me to the other day. I was getting my hair cut by celebrity hairstylist Jonathan Reyman (who has actually worked with Sienna Miller) and we got to talking about parts. Can hair parts really be that versatile? And how do we know which hair part looks best with our face shape?
Below, Reyman explains why geometry and Leonardo da Vinci may hold the key to how we part our hair.
“I’m looking at what’s the most balanced shape and usually we’ll say that oval is the most balanced and this comes, for me, partially from sacred geometry and the golden triangle, which is da Vinci.”
What is an oval face shape? Think Sienna Miller. Proportional width to length. Oval face shapes can wear just about any part.
But in reality, not all faces are alike, hence why there are an infinite amount of cuts and styles to suit our unique face. “There are multiple face shapes in the world. There are a lot of different ways in which people delegate that: round or oval or heart-shaped. For me, I kind of simplify it. Is it long or is it wide? Based on that, if it’s longer do I want to make it shorter? And if it’s wide, do I want to make it more narrow?
For a wide face: “You don’t want to have fringe or a bang. You want to do a center part to open the face up.” The center part will help to elongate instead of widen. “Also, a side bang will be good as well.”
For a long face: “I want to cover up some that space so a side part is best.” Bangs and fringe will work well for a more oblong-shaped face.
“I think that any face shape can do a side part, but long faces don’t want to do a center part.”
Determining how deep your part will go: “It’s about proportion. I believe that as we look at balance – as we look at our faces and our faces change from month to month – I believe that its best to move your part around until you feel that you have that balance.” Again, trial and error.
Training your hair to part ways: “You can use combs and products to train your part,” explains Reyman, adding that the absolute best way is with a blowdryer. “As far as I’m concerned, parts are based on how you blow-dry them. But also color makes hair pliable as well and it will actually part more easily.”
Coloring and cutting based on your part: “When I’m cutting hair, if somebody always wears their hair with the same part [i.e. center], then I cut it off of that. If they move their part around, then I cut around. The same with color. If you always part in one place, then you want to color it around the part. Although, if you’re moving your part around, then you use different coloring techniques so that it looks balanced no matter where you part it.”
Jon Reyman can be found at LA’s Spoke & Weal Salon, where I visited him and received a seriously awesome dry cut, as well as equally awesome hair parting banter.