The Art Of Layering: How To Layer Your Skincare For Optimal Results
If you aren’t layering your skincare products yet, let this be a practice that you pick up in the new year. Layering is BIG at the moment – layered hair, layered clothes, and layered skin products. Like adding on a shirt, sweater, and jacket, layering your retinoids, serums, and moisturizers, allows you to get better results. Think about it in terms of your winter outfit: you put on the sweater and the jacket to keep warm, then throw on a scarf, gloves, maybe even a hat to keep these areas even toastier. Certain areas of your face need certain products and ingredients while other areas don’t, and layering allows you to spot treat where necessary while still offering up essentials like Vitamin C and hydration to the entire face.
“I started by layering natural ingredients from the market, like aloe vera and rosehip oil,” explains Kat Rudu, facialist, founder of the eponymous skincare line, and devout layerer. “I would exfoliate and then apply certain serums for each area of my skin depending on my concerns at the time.” Rudu explains that if she had oily skin one day, she’d add a few drops of tea tree oil into her aloe vera. Another day, if she needed more hydration, she’d add some all-natural rosehip oil. And on days when her skin was combination, she’d spot treat with tea tree oil on the greasy areas and rosehip on the dehydrated parts.
“Serums deliver active ingredients into the skin.” Rudu suggests applying two to three serums post wash and prior to moisturizer, but make sure to let each dry before applying the next one. “Maybe brush your teeth in between,” explains Rudu. I’ve been doing everything from putting on my pajamas to bringing a glass of water to my bedside table. After each task, I apply my next product.
How do you know what products you should apply to your skin? Consider your concerns and then choose accordingly. Rudu suggests peptides or hylauroniuc acid for anti-aging and plumping (TRY: Perricone MD
Hypoallergenic Peptide Complex ($98), Sanitas Hyaluronic Concentrate ($68), Kat Rudu Liquid Lift ($68)); kojic acid and licorice root for brightening (TRY: Skin Ceuticals Phyto+ ($80), First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Serum ($44)); willow bark for oily skin (TRY: Eminence Clear Skin Willow Bark Booster-Serum ($56)); aloe vera for sensitive skin and/ or rosacea (TRY: Philosophy
When Hope Is Not Enough ($43)).
Rudu explains that you layer in order of the serum/ moisturizer’s consistency, meaning from thinnest to thickest. Directly after washing your face, “you go with antioxidants like vitamin C (TRY: Kat Rudu Hydra Cell Vitamin C Serum ($72) or Mario Badescu Vitamin C Serum ($45)). Second is a peptide or hyaluronic acid. After that, you can turn to the oils, especially for more mature skin that craves additional moisture.” Rudu opts for essential oils like rosehip and jojoba (TRY: Pai Skincare Rosehip Bio Regenerate Fruit & Seed Oil Blend ($35) and Desert Essence 100% Pure Jojoba Oil ($10)). “Then you do a moisturizer to seal everything.” (TRY: Kat Rudu Hydra Cell Bright Citrus Moisturizer ($54)). The last step is your chosen SPF for sun protection.
At night, Rudu explains that it’s essential to add a retinoid into the mix. “You can either do the retinoids first and then add the serums or do the serums first and seal it with a retinoid. I’ve always put the retinoid first, though.” Basically, skip the vitamin C and put the retinoid in its place. The rest of the layering routine is the same as the morning, minus the SPF. For both AM and PM, use an eye cream directly before your moisturizing step.
It’s pretty basic but the results are anything but. “The more you layer, the more potent the ingredients become,” explains Rudu. So, next time you wash your face, follow it with a slew of serums, an oil, and a face cream that focuses on your specific skin concerns. Watch your complexion change literally overnight. New year, new skincare routine!