Hair Color Dictionary With Michael Canale
Gloss, shine, or tone? Do you know what your colorist is doing to your hair? We asked Michael Canale, celebrity colorist who is responsible for Jennifer Aniston’s glowing gold shade, to give us the 411 on your salon color options. As they say, knowledge is power.
“Glosses – Add shine and enhance color. Say I wanted to take yellow out of someone’s hair to give it a slight alteration, I would use a shine or gloss. You can use gloss on gold tones to cool tones, never ash tones. Glosses last from 3 to 10 shampoos; certain glosses can last up to two months, depending on what lines you are using.
Shines – Usually clear with the slightest amount of gold or cool blue tones. The blue shine would soften a golden look and the gold shine would enhance. Shines last a week to two weeks; you can buy them in shampoo form too. [You can purchase shine shampoo here].
Toner – Toner is more permanent than gloss. You can actually make a toner out of a hair color. A cool toner would take yellow, sandy, beige tones out of the hair. Blue toner makes white and counters yellow, slate toner takes red out of the hair. Toner lasts about 4 to 6 weeks. [You can purchase toner shampoo here].
Semi-Permanent Color – Non-ammonia hair color that usually lays on the outside of the hair shaft so you keep your natural color. It washes out and doesn’t produce red tones. You would use this to cover grey hairs, or for someone who colors their hair often. You can also use it to darken blonde, it’s less harsh and easier to get out than permanent color. Lasts 4 to 6 weeks.
Permanent Color – Permanent has a lifting ability and alters the base color, permanently. The best candidate is someone who is already dark but wants to go darker, and they don’t color their hair often. If you use an active tint to go dark, you will go red eventually (beware!).
Balayage – Free hand way to add highlights that usually uses a hotter bleach (stronger bleach). Great way to refresh or touch-up color. If you want chunky blonde, ask for balayage.
Foils – A more isolated technique to add highlights – you can see what you are doing and keep it away from the other hair while its in the foils. Foils look much more natural.”
— Michael Canale, celebrity colorist whose clients include Jennifer Aniston, Heidi Klum and Penelope Cruz.